News from Partners:

On the canvas, why women's collections so close to art

While experts debate whether art fashion designers say about their preferences: on the agenda of the history of modernism from impressionism to minimalism.

Impressionism

One of the most popular areas of the world of painting, which the artist laid out complex tones into pure colors of the spectrum, both in a sunbeam refracted, and did not use black paint, has no equal in the history of art in charge of vitality and optimism. Just look at the sun-drenched paintings Auguste Renoir, nature and people which are imbued with happiness and peace. His character in the light flowing dresses echo the images show American duo Marchesa, whose elegant dresses sorbet colors could well be a walk in the afternoon in the Tuileries Gardens Renoir times. At Chanel fragile silhouettes of models in small hats reminiscent of the female characters from the paintings of the founder of Impressionism Edouard Manet (although he refused to participate in exhibitions), in particular the famous "Bar at the Folies-Bergere," which is not surprising, since Karl Lagerfeld - known connoisseur of the artist. His last joint collection prêt-à-porter for Valentino, Maria Grazia and Pierpaolo Picciolo Currie dedicated to the art of ballet, especially the "Russian Seasons" Diaghilev and choreographed by Martha Graham. Therefore, their model in a translucent, sometimes closed tulle dresses and flesh-colored white wide skirts with ruffles, so similar to young dancers by Edgar Degas, sealed in ballet tutus in machines.

Auguste Renoir. "Swing», 1876
Edgar Degas. "Blue Dancers», 1897
Chanel / Marchesa / Oscar de le Renta / Valentino

Orientalism

World Exhibition in Paris 1867 has opened a sophisticated European audience, China and Japan. In the halls of the two countries it was not overcrowded Paris was captivated by their porcelain, fabrics, furniture and lacquered wood, ladies trinkets and accessories. Until 1930-ies with the interior items were brought to Europe and embroidered silk kimono, which are often altered in fashionable dresses or gowns, fans, hair ornaments and other exotics. Few artists have succumbed to the magical beauty of the then East was so graceful, delicate, almost ethereal. Great Van Gogh copied the Japanese prints and landscapes in the manner of imitating artists who worked in the technique sumi-e ink and mineral pigments. One of these original sheets with Japanese botanical drawings of the XVIII century, caught the eye of Lagerfeld, suggested the idea of ​​jacquard fabrics for a new collection of Fendi. Floral motifs with Chinese painted vases that decorated rococo interiors, appeared in the form of embroidery evening gown Alberta Ferretti. Purple coat of brocade, more like a Chinese robe, richly embroidered with gold thread - a vivid example of how East meets West in an elegant and practical ensemble Ralph Lauren. For the year 73-Rey Kawakubo all hated it gives conformism. Her response was a collection for Comme Des Garçons called "Punk XVIII century '- phantasmagoric combination of corsets and hoops of printed silks of Louis XVI and samurai armor, going from two dozen elements.

Vincent Van Gogh. "Blossoming Almond», 1890
William Merritt Chase. "Peonies», 1897
Anna Sui / Fendi / Alberta Ferretti / Comme des Garçons

Expressionism

None fashion season is not without drama - and thank God, otherwise hundreds of shows would become one long sad act. And witness the costume drama - the ultimate dream. Let the professionals apart the degree to which the modern clothing, or her place in theatrical costume. We are ready even for a short 15 minutes to dive into a fantasy world in which the characters come to life the most unexpected. As a prototype for his heroines podium designer Dries van Noten chose eccentric Marquis Luisa Casati, muse and patron of Parisian bohemia of the century. Style Van Noten far from historical accuracy. He resorted to the same artistic techniques, as Ernst Ludwig Kirchner, a contemporary Casati and the founder of German Expressionism: refined, but muted palette, a little grotesque line silhouette, accentuated cinematic eye. The same techniques enjoyed by Marc Jacobs, who dresses a la belle époque dramatically expand in volume due to the layering and large bellows.

Creative method younger contemporary and associate of Kirchner - Otto Dix - differ in the direction of much more violent, to the physiological details of the world of the image. Even in this genre as a portrait of his most famous article "Portrait of the journalist Sylvia von Harden" produces almost uncomfortable impression. It seems that in a show called Dior models output in black tightly buttoned deuce and sunglasses DiorUmbrage coated with mirrored glass fine pattern.

Ernst Ludwig Kihner. "Five women in the street», 1913
Otto Dix. "Portrait of the journalist Sylvia von Harden», 1926
Marc Jacobs / Kenzo / Dries Van Noten / Roberto Cavalli

Op art

This movement that emerged in 1950-x through endless experiments artist Victor Vasarely, was perhaps the first of its kind so literally borrowed fashion. Op art uses a variety of visual illusions, based on the specifics of the perception of flat and three-dimensional shapes. All elements of the composition are built on thin calculation, very rationally, referring not to the aesthetic side of perception, and to the mind of man. In 1960-e with their youth boom space missions and new music op-art was the most in tune with the new crazy experiments primarily in fashion and design. Even the simplest illyuzionisticheskie composition - such as those that are made up of two-colored bands that create the illusion of the canvas plane volume - more interestingly revealed in a three-dimensional volume of tissue as a pattern. Horizontal wavy bands at Fendi and broken, as if refracted - have Victoria Beckham look modern, with every movement complicating the game of volumes and colors vibrate. And Haider Ackerman line echo curves of the body, visually stretching the figure. Perhaps only some "kinetic sculptures» Issey Miyake, where the move complex graphics bands intertwined with springy finely pleated fabric can even dizzy, as once those who first saw the works of Vasarely.

Victor Vasarely. "Zebra», 1950
Bar Zebar, Shanghai, architectural studio 3GATTI, 2010
Sportmax / Issey Miyake / Victoria Beckham / Fendi

Minimalism

This trend is so organically entered in our lives, in the first place, not even in fashion and architecture that we can not speak of it as a momentary trend.

Proenza Schouler, for example, called the name of the artist Frank Stella - a new collection of designer inspired him to post-painterly abstraction (whatever that means). In it, each with its ensemble textures, volume and multi-layer has been designed like a modern sculpture. The show was held in the new building of the Whitney Museum of American Art, designed by Renzo Piano genius of modernism, and it has become worthy of some sort of exhibition space for unusual exposure.

Architecture Paris UNESCO headquarters, which hosted the Loewe show resonated with a collection in which the emphasis was placed on the textures of fabrics and details. Phoebe Philo, by Céline designer and chief proponent of minimalism and Joseph behind her, bringing a whole palette of colors to more muted, bet on the game with the volumes and contrast of textures. Upon closer examination, these seemed stiff and clumsy things are created from high-quality leather, cashmere and wool. Despite its apparent simplicity, minimalism requires a little more attention to be judged on its merits.

Robert Morris. Untitled, 1965
The work of Donald Judd in the Fund Cheenath (The Chinati Foundation) in the town of Marfa, Texas
Joseph / Céline / Loewe / Jil Sander

RBC Style

GTranslate Your license is inactive or expired, please subscribe again!